Since producing the last Newsletter we have had some new members join us.  It is always good to have new blood if we want to keep the Group as a viable entity.   As I mentioned before we have no idea why sometimes very promising beginners suddenly give up.  Please let us know if you have any ideas that will help keep them.

We have been looking without success just recently for original photographs or line drawings that we could use to make simple kits.  When we display and demonstrate at various locations it is very useful to be able to offer for sale such kits.  They are a cheap way of getting people interested in Marquetry and provide much needed finance for the Groups financial balance.  The weekly subscription is very low compared with other craft type clubs,  groups and evening classes elsewhere and it has been kept low partly by income gained from these sales.   With the new copyright laws we cannot use pictures or line drawings in kits, that we offer for sale which are the work of or owned by an other person without authority. So how about it?  Have a hunt around in your old photo albums or if you have artistic talent  see if you can produce a line drawing that a beginner would not have too much difficulty making a picture from.

HINTS AND TIPS

Finishing a picture (continued)

Continuing from last issue on the subject of finishing, having sanded the picture with varying grades of glass paper and produced a smooth flat surface we are ready to apply the finish.  The first question arises is what polish do I use.  Finishes are multiple and varied. As I mentioned last time I have yet to find one that I am totally happy with.  At the moment I am using Rustins Plastic Coating.  This gives an excellent finish but is very pungent.  Cellulose sanding sealer can be used to build up an acceptable finish but again you will not win any friends if you use it in the living room.  There are lacquer sprays which can be bought from Car Spares shops and some people have obtained excellent finishes with these.  French polish is another finish which if applied properly will give beautiful results.  I could go on and on but suffice it to say if you find one that gives you acceptable results then stick with it.

Many long hours spent in cutting a picture can be lost by hurried finishing.  You cannot take shortcuts. I don’t intend at this stage to give advice on the application of different polishes.  I will pass on some general hints that I have picked up over the years.  Perhaps in future issues some other members of the Group will put pen to paper and describe how they apply their finish.

To start with it is best policy to fill the grain.  I normally use cellulose sanding sealer applied with the fingertip by small circular movements until the whole picture is covered. (If you are using a new type of polish always try the sealer and finish on another piece of wood first to see if there is a chemical reaction indicating that the two were incompatible.)   Also, when using  any polish that is cellulose or spirit based, ensure that the room is well ventilated.  Sanding sealer if applied thinly will dry very quickly and I usually put on six coats with about 20/30 minutes between.  I lightly sand with a worn out piece of glass paper between each  coat to remove any nibs or dust specks. I then leave it for two or three days to really harden.

(Continued overleaf)

Bill Kober, Helga Smith, Eric Faulkner,
Harry Hayford, Joan O’Keefe, Shop keeper, and
Gloria Murton, Librarian

The above page was taken from the second issue of the Marketing Marquetry news letter.
The (Continued overleaf) page can be found by simply clicking "Next Page" button below.