The next stage is to sand back until all hollows and finger marks are removed.  As before, use a fine glass paper and use long strokes in one direction keeping at least three quarters of the block on the picture.  Don’t press too firmly otherwise you run the risk of inserting deep scratches which may be difficult to remove.  To check if the surface is truly flat hold the piece up to the light and look across it.  Any bright spots are high spots and need to be flattened to ensure a totally flat surface.  During this period of grain sealing you may find that you start getting coloured dust beginning to appear.  This means that you have cut through your sealer and are starting to sand veneer.  If this happens, stop sanding, dust down thoroughly and apply more sealer to the whole face and repeat the process.  Until you have a uniformly flat surface that is not showing ‘dips and hollows’ application of your favoured finish will ultimately prove to be time wasted and you normally end up sanding right back. So it is worth the effort in getting it right first time off. (I know, I’ve been there, on nearly every picture that I’ve finished!) Once you are satisfied you are then ready to apply your top finish.  As stated, I use Rustins Plastic Coating.  It can be applied with a brush quite thickly and any brush marks tend to disappear as the lacquer finds its own level.  It also dries fairly quickly allowing second and further coats to be applied more readily.  I’ve found it produces a flat acceptable finish which can be polished to a high gloss mirror finish or to any other degree of shine with wire wool.  It is a very resilient and hard finish which will take heat if using on a table or tray. If the piece is not going to take direct heat, consider using Rustins Plastic Coating ‘F’ which is the same but without the ‘Melamine’ which gives the other heat resisting properties.  If a quantity of either is mixed up in a jar and you wish to keep it to  apply later, keep your brush in the jar and enclose both in a plastic food bag and secure tightly.  Put this in another airtight food bag and knot tightly.  This can be kept in the fridge or other cold place until ready for use. On the down side, ordinary Plastic Coating is quite expensive and must be applied in a well ventilated room.Be careful if storing in the fridge. Make sure the jar is securely and tightly sealed. If not you can wave bye-bye to the contents of the fridge and relationships tend to suffer!If using ordinary Plastic Coating mix four measures of lacquer to one measure of hardener in a glass, not plastic, jar.  Make sure it is well mixed by shaking and let it stand to allow any bubbles to settle and disappear. (If using ‘F’ type the ratio is 1:16)  I apply the finish on my bench with a newspaper underneath to catch any drips with the piece bluetacked to the top of a 3lb jam jar filled with water or sand to give it weight.  This allows you to coat the edges as well.  In this way, when you eventually do the back, you can give the edges some more reducing the risk of sanding through later.  Whatever method you use make sure that the piece is on an even keel by placing a spirit level over it in both directions otherwise you will find that the lacquer will slowly run to one side. Use a soft fine bristled paint brush, well loaded, and apply in one direction from edge to edge over the whole piece.  The drying of each coat depends on the amount of hardener used as it is a chemical process and does not overly rely on a warm temperature.  When dry, any time between a half to one and a half hours, lightly rub with a fine or worn out glass paper  to remove any hairs, bubbles or dust nibs and apply  another coat.  The number of coats used depends on the initial flatness of the picture but I have found that I have managed with between four and ten.  After each sanding ensure no dust remains before re-coating otherwise the dust specks will show, especially against darker veneer.  These can only be removed by sanding back to the previous layer. Once you are satisfied with the flatness of the final finish leave it to fully cure.  Although apparently hard on the outside underneath it is probably still soft.  (A number of us have sent pieces to the National wrapped in bubble plastic and found that on arrival the bubbles of the plastic have marked the finish because insufficient time was allowed for it to cure.  Therefore don’t leave the finishing until the last minute before sending to an exhibition.) The exact time of curing cannot be stated but depends on the mix, temperature and number of coats but I usually leave it for two weeks before finally rubbing down. The final rubbing down can make or spoil your picture.  Don’t use a coarse glass paper. This will put scratches into the finish that will be difficult to remove.  With Rustins P.C. a wet and dry paper wetted in soapy water works very well but be careful it is very easy  to rub through the layers of lacquer. (Again, how many of us have rubbed through to the wood and have had to start again?)  Employ the same method as before and ensure that two thirds of the block remains on the picture.  Only sand in one direction and increasingly use finer and finer wet and dry paper (I end up with 1200 grit) until the surface is flat and without scratches.  Once satisfied, use the burnishing cream supplied, T-Cut or similar medium to obtain the required degree of shine.   Wire wool Grade 0000 is very useful for the final finish if a high gloss is not required. This just takes the edge off the high gloss shine.  Finally,  polish with a good wax polish to complete your finishingFinishing is not easy and is time consuming but if you persist you will find that your pictures will be enhanced as you acquire the necessary skill.  It has been mediocre finishing, not poor marquetry that has prevented us winning more often in our inter group competitions with Bexley and St. Albans. Let’s try to alter this next year This has been a long article but I hope it helps and if you have any comments or would like to tell others how you apply your finish let me know and I will use any such article’s in future issues.
 

BUCKLED VENEERS We’ve all got buckled veneers in our stock and they can be particularly difficult to use.  Horrie Pedder handed me the following recipe to help straighten them out.2 measures of ‘Cascomite ‘ glue powder, 1 measure of Plain Flour, 3 measures of Water,  1 and a half measures of Glycerine and 1 measure of Methylated Spirits.Mix this concoction together, Brush over the buckled veneer and leave for 5 minutes.  Then place between plastic sheets and press with weights until dry.  This will flatten out the wood and any residue left will be sanded off during the finishing stage.  This is also a good method to use on particularly brittle veneer to stop it splitting prior to cutting. (I’ve not used this method so I don’t know how long the residue will keep in a sealed container.)