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This hammer work cannot be carried out on an unmounted picture which would
split when struck with hammer and punch. So I have mounted the finished
tree on a piece of MDF. It is now stable and is ready for the next stage.
A serrated punch has to be made. This is easily done. Take
a 6” nail and cut the point off. Secure it in a vice with the flat face
uppermost. Take a small hacksaw with sharp blade and cut three cuts
across the face of the nail to about one millimetre depth. Turn the nail
90o and repeat the process. The face of the nail should have a
crisscross pattern. I use a triangular file and a thin one to file along
the cuts to make sharper points. The punch is now ready for use. Nails of
differing thicknesses can be used and can be useful additions to your tool
box.
At this stage, if you have not used this technique before
it is advisable to practice on piece of ply wood as you don’t want to
spoil months of work by inexperience punch work.
When using the punch you must hold it upright otherwise the
indentations will be of unequal depth.
Strike the nail firmly. Aim to go through the picture into
the base board. In my picture I started ‘punching’ in the bottom right
hand branches but there is no correct place to start. Use your
imagination.
Decide what colours you want in you picture. In my picture
I wanted autumn colours – reds, yellows and brown. In different pictures
other colours may be required. The sawdust should be quite fine to be
forced into the holes left by the punch.
There are various ways to obtain the sawdust. I select the
veneer that I wish to use and cut it into short strips and glue them
together until they are the thickness of a pencil. I then put it into an
electric pencil sharpener. The dust collected is fine enough to use.
Another method I have used is to file the strips with a wood rasp or yet
again sand with a course glass paper. If you require a coloured wood, dye
the veneer before making the ‘pencil’ you will see that I have three basic
colours which I have mixed together to obtain an ‘Autumn mix’
Wipe white PVA glue well into the punched holes and quickly
before the glue goes off sprinkle the dust over them bit by bit. With the
flat end of the hammer press the dust into the holes. Place a piece of
polyfilm over the picture and press it in a press to ensure the holes are
all filled.
Leave for 24 hours then take out of the press and remove
the polyfilm. Now comes the hard work. Removing all the dust except that
which has been pressed into the holes. Use a cork block and glass paper
lightly. Do not tilt the block as you risk damaging the edges of the
picture. Glass paper is my preferred method as scraping will tear the
dust out of the holes.
Continue sanding until all the residue has been removed and
you will see the holes now appear like leaves. If the finished product is
not to your liking or the leaves are required to be more thickly spread
repeat the process, perhaps with a different colour over the top of the
existing ones.
Having achieved the desired effect, seal the leaves with a
sanding sealer to stop ‘bleed out’ into the background wood and when dry
finish in your usual way.
The
following photo sequence demonstrates how to make the "punches" necessary
for doing this technique - and the procedure for applying the veneer dust.
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Cutting finished un-mounted
detail |
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Different
sizes of the serrated punches
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Picture
mounted with various punches and hammer
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Cut picture
awaiting mounting
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Hacksaw, files
and nail ready to be transformed into a punch
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Making the
initial cut across the nail
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Now making the
right angle cuts
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Using the
triangular file to shape the "teeth" profile
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Hammering with
the punch
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A "close up"
of the resulting indentations
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Sawdust ready
for use
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Coloured
sawdust ready for use
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Applying the
PVA glue
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Spreading the
glue
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Sprinkling the
sawdust on the "glued picture"
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Hammering the
sawdust into the indentations
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Pressing the sawdust into the
indentations |
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Pressed and
dry
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Sanding
sawdust off first stage
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Sanding
sawdust off second stage
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Sanding now completed |
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The finished picture |
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